- Oct 08, 2018
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Life Deck Metallic Epoxy System
Click Here for Life Deck Metallic Epoxy System Spec Sheet
Click Here for Life Deck Metallic Epoxy System Color Chart
Life Paint’s Metallic Epoxy Floor System is a high build, seamless floor finish for use indoors over existing concrete. The system is a 3+ step process depending on desired effect and required protection. The system consists of one coat of 100% Solids Epoxy Primer with Metallic Pigment, one coat of a Metallic Pigmented 100% Solids Cycloaliphatic Epoxy, one clear coat of a 100% Solids Cycloaliphatic Epoxy, with an optional coat of Life Deck 2003 Chemical Resistant Urethane for a high-gloss, protective Topcoat.
- Beautiful and unique decorative finish
- Strong and resilient flooring system
- Optional Non-skid texture
- Seamless floor
- Endless color design
- Heavy duty commercial environments
- Office Spaces
- Garage floor system
- Beauty Salons
- Interior Floors
- 1 Primer Coat – Life Deck 1200 or LD12VAPOR Primer Clearmixed with Life Deck Metal Pigment
- 1 Dispersion Coat – Life Deck 31-96 Epoxy Clear mixed with Life Deck Metal Pigment dispersed with Denatured Alcohol
- 1 Fill Coat – Life Deck 31-96 Epoxy Clear
- Optional Topcoat – 1 Coat – Life Deck 2003 CRU
- Stiff Red Rubber Squeegee
- 18” – 3/8” Non-Shedding Nap Rollers w/ Frame
- High-Quality Spray Bottle
- Denatured Alcohol (Approximately 1 gallon/1000 ft)
- Acetone for Cleanup
- Sanding Screen
- Spiked Shoes
- Floor Preparation equipment
Materials Needed for 600 square feet
- 3 – Life Deck 1200 Clear Epoxy Primer – 1.5 gal kits
- 4 – Life deck 31-96 Clear Epoxy – 1.5 gal kits
- 7 – Life Deck METAL-Quart Jars of Metallic Pigment
- 3 – Life deck 31-96 Clear Epoxy – 1.5 gal kits
- 2 – Life Deck 2003 CRU – 1 gal kits (Optional)
The following information is to be used as a guideline for the installation of the Life Deck Metallic Epoxy Floor System. Contact the Technical Service Department for assistance prior to application.
Surface Preparation – Concrete
- Concrete must be level. Any slope/grade will cause pigments to run and react unpredictably.
- Concrete must be clean, dry, and free of grease, paint, oil, dust, curing agents, or any foreign material that will prevent proper adhesion.
- The concrete should be at least 2500 psi and feel like 30-grit sandpaper.
- The concrete should be porous and be able to absorb water.
- A minimum of 28 days cured is required on all concrete. Relative humidity in the concrete floor slab should be below 80% (per ASTM F-2170).
- Before starting flooring work, test existing concrete slab to make sure there is no efflorescence or high levels of alkalinity. Alkalinity refers to a high pH reading which means the floor is not neutral. A high alkaline environment can cause salts to creep up through the cement called efflorescence. These salts have a tendency to prevent or destroy the bonding of coatings to the concrete. The most common form of testing is the use of a wide-range pH paper or tape.
- Make sure the floors pH reading ranges between 5-9 to ensure adhesion. The testing of concrete for alkalinity can show the amount of alkalinity only at the time the test is ran, and cannot be used to predict long-term conditions.